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All Back Issues » May/June 2007 Issue

Coffee Is The New Wine
by Margaret Rose Caro

“I’VE GOTTEN MORE CALLS FROM HOTELS in the last few months than in the past five years,” says Andrew Hetzel, president and founder of Cafemakers (www.cafemakers.com), a specialty coffee business consultancy based in Hawaii. “Although hotels, and the United States in general, are behind in coffee trends compared with the rest of the world (Scandinavians drink the most and brew the best), they are catching up—and catching on. There are specific ways to create a better coffee experience for hotel guests. It’s a huge opportunity to be creative— and increase profits.

“Coffee is the new wine,” says Hetzel. Not that long ago, restaurants offered a choice of either house Red or White. No restaurant would get away with that now. And coffee has followed the same pattern. Once people have tasted good coffee, “there is no going back,” says Hetzel. The trends are entirely consumer driven, and the key word is “specialization.” It is not unusual now for someone to confidently request Kenyan or Ethiopian or Hawaiian coffee.

The big trends, according to Hetzel:
  • Specialization
  • Social Causes Offering products that benefit social or environmental organizations (organic, shade grown, bird safe) make people feel good about the coffee they are drinking. “It is well-intended, and does more good than harm,” Hetzel says.
  • Intense flavors By serving smaller-sized coffee drinks with more intense flavors, guests are more satisfied—and will pay more. Hetzel compares the concept to getting a small pizza in Italy. Initially, it looks too small to be filling ... but the flavor is so intense that it’s enough ... and memorable.
Even though Hetzel favors cappuccino (the traditional 5-1/2 ounce size), he says flavored drinks are still popular. People like cold, frozen, and blended drinks—even though they contain very little coffee. He feels, however, that the best coffee comes from properly extracted espresso blends.

DON’T FEAR STARBUCKS
Hoteliers want to keep their guests from going to the nearest Starbucks down the street. But they often don’t want a fast food outlet in their elegant lobby. Therein lies the fallacy—and the opportunity. Coffee bars or cafés can complement a particular hotel concept or décor. They can be designed, with the proper ambience, to keep people there longer, eating and drinking more.

And it’s an opportunity for chefs to develop food and coffee pairings. For example, Asian/Pacific coffees (particularly Java and Sumatra) tend to be roasted darker to bring out their more full-bodied and intense flavor with low acidity. This makes them ideal for hearty dishes, such as beef, game, fowl, or heavier chocolatebased desserts. Coffees from Africa and Latin America tend to be high in acidity and offer delicate floral, berry, and citrus tastes, making them better suited for pairing with fruity dishes or main courses with light flavor, such as a mild fish.

“You should never fear Starbucks,” Hetzel says.

Good coffee, he emphasizes, is practical for in-room, banquet, and restaurant service. If you use the proper high-volume equipment and understand that coffee is perishable (it’s best to use it three to five days after roasting; after two weeks it is stale), you can serve the best coffee and give your guest a memorable experience.—MRC



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