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Jason Nealy
Executive Chef, Magnolia Hotels, Dallas
“Because our clientele doesn’t much
go for wild game, I introduce unusual
dishes in other ways. For example, one
of my most popular and unusual
dishes is a green tea smoked chicken
breast served with a cactus pear
vinaigrette with mixed baby field
greens. It looks pretty, and maybe that’s
why more women order it than men. I
also offer a dry chipotle-rubbed rib eye
with Tabasco onion rings, which,
perhaps not surprisingly, more men order than women. Another item
that drew raves was a slow-cooked baby back rib, sliced and rolled in
buttermilk, seasoned, and fried. Of course, not all of my unusual
creations are a success. One experiment that didn’t work out was a
Caribbean Jerk chicken with a Southwestern pineapple relish and a
mango salsa. The flavors were there but they just didn’t mix and match
properly. You never know exactly how something is going to turn out,
and it’s part of the fun of creating new dishes.”
Michael Cairns
Executive Chef, Arizona Biltmore Resort
and Spa, Phoenix
“Rattlesnake is an item that we
prepare for some of our Western
cookouts, such as rattlesnake chile and
rattlesnake empanadas. I recently used
it for a Cub Scout cookout as part of
their wilderness training. We showed
the Scouts how to skin it, cutting the
meat off the bone and seasoning it
with rosemary and garlic. Next, we
wrapped it in aluminum foil and put it
right in the campfire. Having
rattlesnake on the menu does raise
some eyebrows, but we know that many of our guests want a chance to
experience it. We also offer javelina bacon, which comes from a small
pig-like creature that roams the Sonoran Desert here. It is very tasty but
gamey, like a wild boar. We also offer antelope and bear meat in the
springtime. One of our unusually prepared dishes is our escargots,
which are fed exclusively on basil; they even smell like basil. We also
make a turnover with them. I think keeping an open mind is important.
One time a friend of mine said she didn’t like foie gras, so I told her it
was cappuccino mousse, instead. She ate it and declared it
‘Unbelievable!’ Of course, don’t try that with a customer!”
Stephen Sandquist
Chef de Cuisine, Crow’s Nest, Captain Cook Hotel,
Anchorage, Alaska
“First, certain foods that were once
considered strange are getting less strange now. I
still consider some Korean food strange, but I
don’t cook Korean cuisine. We don’t get into
items such as rattlesnake because we’ve found
that they usually sit in the freezer until it’s time
to throw them out. We do Halibut cheeks, which might be considered
unusual. It’s the cutout of the fish’s cheek and it’s stringier than the rest
of the Halibut, more like the texture of a scallop and very tasty. We run
calves’ brains or sweetbreads specials every now and then. Speaking of
sweetbreads, at a property that I worked for once in Chicago, a new
server we had hired brought in her entire family for dinner. They
ordered the sweetbreads, thinking it was a vegetarian dish. The server’s
vegetarian sister ate them and thought they were delicious! After the
family finished eating, I came out to see how they liked everything and
they asked what a sweetbread was. Of course, I explained and they were
pretty shocked, especially the vegetarian sister!”
Chris Brown
Chef of Roux Bistro, Sheraton Hotel,
New Orleans
“Being in New Orleans, we use a lot of
indigenous seafood, as well as other local
specialties. For example, we created an
appetizer sampler that, in addition to the
spicy Louisiana ham sausage, known as an
Andouille sausage, it included smoked and
grilled alligator sausage, rabbit sausage, and
duck sausage—served with a variety of spicy
mustards, pickled okra, and green beans.
That popular dish remained on our menu
for almost a year. Right now, we’re offering a crawfish beignet, a rendition of
the famous Café du Monde specialty doughnut. We mix beignet batter with
fresh crawfish tails, green onions, garlic, a special Creole seasoning mix, drop
it in a deep fryer, and serve it with remoulade sauce. It’s a definite hit. Of
course, not all creations are a hit … or even understood. For example, back in
the late ‘80s, when Nouvelle Cuisine was all the rage, I worked for a five-star
French restaurant, and we offered a truffle en croute. This appetizer featured
shaved white truffles served in a short dough coating with a center of foie gras.
It was deep fried and served in a bowl with truffle au jus. It was the most
expensive appetizer on the menu—about $45 at the time— and, yet, more
than once we had a customer return it half-eaten, complaining that “The
truffle was great…but you left in the pit!”
Pam Leigh is a frequent contributor to HOTEL F&B. |