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All Back Issues » March/April 2006 Issue

Say It With Champagne
by Gerald D. Boyd

Champagne is the ne plus ultra of luxury beverages. So special is it that Champagne (or sparkling wine) is guaranteed to brighten the moment and add a touch of class, no matter the occasion or celebration. For as long as anyone can remember, Champagne has been the most requested celebratory wine. Mind you, the Champenois are not complaining about this compartmentalization of their precious bubbly, but they would like you to know Champagne is not just for holidays and special occasions.

There are many reasons to say it with Champagne, but the fact that the world’s classiest sparkling wine has a style that goes with any kind of food may be all the hotel beverage director needs to know. From dry to sweet, white to pink, there is a range of Champagnes to appeal to all tastes and occasions.

Contrary to popular opinion, Champagne is not a generic term for all sparkling wine, but an exclusive French wine made only in a delimited region northeast of Paris. However, there are many excellent sparkling wines from other regions such as California that are made using the traditional Champagne method.

Méthode Traditionelle
Méthode traditionelle (or as it is sometimes called, méthode champenoise), the traditional method of making Champagne blends together three grapes: Chardonnay for finesse, Pinot Noir for structure and (Pinot) Meunier for nuance. A classic cuvee (blend) is 60 percent Pinot Noir and 40 percent Chardonnay. For years Meunier was considered a second-rate grape in Champagne, but lately a growing number of Champagne houses are blending in a little Meunier to give their cuvee dimension and nuance. The art of blending is vital to obtaining the “house style” vintage after vintage.

Stylistically, Chardonnay lovers can enjoy Blanc de Blancs (white from white grapes) Champagne, made entirely from Chardonnay. Although red sparkling wine is illegal in Champagne, there is Rosé Champagne, a delightful drink made mainly from Pinot Noir, sometimes blended with a little Meunier, although Rosé Champagne is often made by blending white and red wines. Blanc de Noirs (white from black) is a style similar to Rosé, made by lightly macerating the Pinot Noir and sometimes Meunier on the skins to obtain a light staining.

Because the base wine for Champagne is high in acidity, a dosage is added to balance the wine. The specific level of dosage is very important to the balance and overall taste of the wine. Dosage is the addition of a measured amount of cane sugar and sometimes reserve wines, to add depth, character, and balance to the wine.

At the driest end of the Champagne range there is Brut Natural, Ultra Brut, or a handful of other terms that mean the wine is finished bone dry. Next is Brut, which generally implies the wine is finished with between 0 to 1.5 percent residual sweetness, from the dosage. The term Extra-Sec is a little confusing since sec in French means “dry,” while the wine is, in fact, off-dry finished with between 1.2 and 2 percent sweetness. Sec, Demi-Sec and Doux move progressively from medium dry to very sweet, but these sweeter Champagnes are not often seen in the U.S. market.

Pairings
Such a full palette of styles makes Champagne a great match with just about any food, but especially savory foods. Drier Champagnes like Brut are very nice with salty snacks and hors d’oeuvres, especially the salted nuts found in hotel room minibars. Placing a couple of splits (375ml) of Brut Champagne in a mini-bar can elicit a different mood then a brew and a bag of beer nuts. In a business hotel a special guest might enjoy a split of chilled Champagne with a small tray of air-dried ham, a chunk of cheese like mature Parmesan that is rich in the so-called fifth taste, umami, and some salted Spanish almonds. Now that will take the edge off the roughest day.

Room Service
Room service menus and wine lists are often oriented toward speed and convenience, both for the guest and hotel F&B staff. Careful attention in writing the wine lists will provide reasonable alternatives to the guest no matter what his or her taste is in sparkling wine. A balanced list should contain a minimum of three Champagnes or sparkling wines: Brut, Vintage Brut, and Rose or Blanc de Noirs. All are easily adaptable with snack, finger foods, or entrée items.

Wine List
Champagne and sparkling wine sales have had some ups and downs in recent years, but now seem to be regaining momentum. There are numerous Champagnes and sparkling wines at various price points available in today’s market. Here are just a few to consider for the well-stocked room service and restaurant wine list:

California sparkling wine offers a high level of quality, often at a more reasonable price then Champagne. Brands to seek out include Korbel, an award-winning “California Champagne” that represents good value, Domaine Chandon, especially the Blanc de Noirs, Mumm Napa Valley, Domaine Carneros, Gloria Ferrer, Iron Horse Wedding Cuvee, Roederer Estate, both the Brut and l’Ermitage and Jordan’s J.

Non-Vintage Champagnes worth a look include Philipponnat Royale Reserve Brut, Charles Heidsieck Mis en Cave, Deutz Brut Classic. Vintage Champagnes of note include Lanson Gold Label, Pol Roger and Bollinger Grande Annee Rose Champagnes worth a look are Ruinart Rose Brut, Louis Roederer Brut Rose, and Veuve Cliquot Brut Rose.

Other sparkling wine choices that will add diversity to your room service wine list include Italian Prosecco, fizzy, slightly sweet and packed with fruit, or a German Sekt made from Riesling. Both of these friendly sparkling wines are great on their own as an aperitif or with food.

Versatile and always refreshing, Champagne and sparkling wine fits any occasion or meal. Next time your wine list needs an overhaul or just a few additions, resist the lure of still Chardonnay and offer your guests Champagne and sparkling wine.

Gerald D. Boyd, based in Sonoma County, is a freelance writer, frequent lecturer, and panelist who specializes in wine and spirits, fine food, and travel.