elected by the Arizona Kidney Foundation to be one of eleven celebrity dancers for the “Dancing with the Stars Arizona” fundraiser that took place in January 2007, English-born Executive Chef Lee Hillson of T. Cook's and the Royal Palms Resort and Spa in Phoenix took home a fourth-place trophy with his professional dance partner Gergana Slavova.

It came as no surprise that Hillson would bring the same energy and enthusiasm to his ballroom dance moves as he has brought to this fine dining kitchen since being hired as sous chef in 2000, then being promoted to executive chef in August 2005.

“I have the rhythm of a stick and am known as the clumsiest person on the dance floor, capable of only the obligatory rocking side-to-side or a remedial box step,” Hillson recalls saying prior to preparing for the competition. But he quickly changed his tune once he began taking lessons.

“I was happy to participate for the charitable reasons, but I discovered I absolutely loved it,“ Hillson adds.

Since his arrival at the Royal Palms, Hillson has garnered acclaim from Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report, Travel + Leisure magazine, and a bevy of Phoenix/Scottsdale food writers. T. Cook’s has been ranked the #1 Phoenix restaurant by the Zagat(R) Survey for both 2006 and 2007, and several local publications have voted it the “most romantic restaurant in Phoenix.”

Hillson has been invited to cook at the legendary James Beard House in New York more than once. His most recent invitation was in February 2007, when he orchestrated a five-course aphrodisiac menu in concert with his Executive Pastry Chef Pierino Jermonti.

Fully Orchestrated
Hillson readily admits he isn’t a one-man band. “It's not all about me. I want to be sure my crew gets the kudos they deserve. The restaurant wouldn’t be the same without them,“ Hillson shares.

His “crew“ numbers 40, and Hillson is responsible for T. Cook’s; A.M. and P.M. banquets, cafeteria, prep cooks, butcher shop, room service, amenities, and spa and pool/cabana.

For example, guests checking into the new Alvadora Spa Suites and Villa are welcomed with a Hillson original: an orange lavender honey smoothie, made with juice from the Royal Palms’ own orange grove, to give guests a taste of the Mediterranean flavors awaiting them at T. Cook’s.

Because Hillson formerly worked both as a pastry chef and sous chef, he feels he brings a solid, all-around base to the kitchen.

“I can relate really well to my staff, as I have done their jobs,” Hillson says. “There’s a comradeship here.”

In addition to a cohesive culinary team, Hillson feels the ambiance of the restaurant, combined with its location, décor, and simplicity of the food, is what sets it apart.

“The food isn’t overly complicated. It’s honest. The guest knows what he’s going to get,“ says Hillson. “We combine the freshest of ingredients to produce great flavors and great textures.“

This, combined with his willingness to visit with guests in the dining room, has created a loyal local following, even in the shoulder season.

“Quite a few people ask to be seen with the chefs, and I’ll go out and say ‘hi’ when asked,“ Hillson says.

Back in the kitchen, Hillson calls his pasta machine, formerly part of his personal collection, his favorite appliance. He's looking to purchase a new set of cooking ranges/ovens. Because of its versatility, his favorite gadget is a grater/zester. He’s also envious of his sous chef’s wooden truffle slicer, so it’s on his wish list.

Cut to A “T”
Hillson’s favorite serving plate is a piece of marble he had specifically cut to use for T. Cook’s cheese board presentation. The array of five artisanal cheeses changes seasonally but may include such selections as Nancy's Camembert, accompanied by honey and fresh blackberries, and the Dutch Polder Gold Gouda, served with caramelized walnuts.

Hillson got his first taste of cooking as a child. “As a young kid in Australia, we lived in a shipping town. Only married couples lived in houses; single people got flats. So a friend would come over and cook. I'd stand and watch while he’d marinade steaks,” Hillson says.

Thirty-six-year-old Hillson began his restaurant career at age 16, having enrolled in culinary school at Bournemouth and Poole College in England. After a short stint stateside, he returned to England, where he eventually worked as the pastry chef at Hintlesham Hall for three years before being appointed sous chef at this award-winning, fine dining restaurant. He once again left his beloved England, this time to become executive sous chef and then executive chef at Vanderbilt Hall in Newport, Rhode Island.

While venturing west, he happened to drive by the Royal Palms Resort. It was love at first sight.

“I feel in love with the property. The former sous chef had been promoted to executive chef. I was offered the sous chef position,” Hillson says.

After having served in this spot for five years, he became executive chef.

“The hotel has a policy to promote from within,” Hillson says. “It’s great for morale. And given the type of property we are—very personal service-oriented—the personality fit of the staff and working as a team is very important.”

It's this attention to detail and personal service that Hillson says he will bring to the table if he ever realizes a dream of opening an East Coast bed and breakfast.

But for the immediate future, he says his goal is to stay at the Royal Palms, dishing out the royal treatment.

Under The Chef's Hat