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All Back Issues » July/August 2007 Issue

Designing Chefs...
Kor Hotel Group’s approach to hiring and empowering culinary talent creates “home-grown” celebrity chefs.
By Margaret Rose Caro

(L–R) Chef Cupertino Ortiz, the Tides Riviera Maya; President Nicholas Clayton; Chef Warren Schwartz,Viceroy Santa Monica; and Chef Pietro Rota, the Tides South Beach.




Chef Warren Schwartz, Viceroy Santa Monica


Chef Cupertino Ortiz, the Tides Riviera Maya


Chef Pietro Rota, the Tides South Beach


Blue Foot Chicken

“Founded on quality and creativity, we are a team of passionate individuals committed to redefining the traditional concept of luxury hospitality through intuitive service, inspiring design, innovative culinary experiences, and holistic wellness programs that touch the heart and soul of every guest.”

For adventurous types wanting to try Blue Foot Chicken—prepared just for them and brought to the table by a well-known chef—or for those who might enjoy dining with Cameron Diaz just one table over, Whist in Santa Monica is their kind of place. The Kor Hotel Group, a collection of boutique properties in legendary locations, has created just these kind of restaurants.

It all started when Bradford Korzen purchased the Avalon in Beverly Hills. Kor then brought in noted designer Kelly Wearstler to create enchanting and luxurious interiors. But it would take more than design to fill restaurants.

To create destination dining, Kor considered hiring celebrity chefs. But the company took it up a notch by focusing on unique approaches to the experience. So, instead of just going after the usual top-name chefs, Kor sought yet-to-be-discovered talent and empowered them to innovate. The challenge was to turn these potential stars into hotel chefs—culinarians who would work their magic and also conquer the complexity of a hotel’s multiple venues, including banquets and room service. This courageous approach works.

“When I look at any hotel project,” says Nicholas Clayton, president of Kor Hotel Group, “I focus particularly on the local community. Except for resorts in out-of-the-way areas, most hotels have a need for a local following. It’s important to observe what’s successful locally and to appeal to that. What’s appropriate in New York won’t necessarily be in L.A. In [New York], for example, hiring a name brand star might be the right strategy.”

“Our early success in food and beverage,” says Clayton, “has been understanding and attracting these local markets. It is viewed as an exciting part of the hotel’s personality and has contributed to a high level of profit.” Even in remote areas, Kor focuses on, and redefines, local traditional cuisine, emphasizing a sense of place.

Clayton says Kor’s search for chefs comes primarily from two sources. The first is the kitchens of celebrity chefs. “We look for those who have worked for and supported star chefs, who have been part of their culinary brigade and contributed to the success of the master. They are the front runners who are promotable.

“We know that, in the kitchens of chefs like Thomas Keller, Gordon Ramsay, and Charlie Trotter, there are culinarians who reach a glass ceiling. And the chef often knows someone has contributed all they can and supports a move.

The second source is great organizations. “We look for people who have worked in quality restaurants, who have served the calibre of customer we are serving today ... and we look at hotels with master chefs,” Clayton says.

MARKETING
“Another important reason for our success,” Clayton points out, “is that Kor integrates food and beverage marketing into its budget. We have engaged specialists in food and beverage marketing to help promote our restaurants and bars. And chefs are at the forefront of our marketing strategy. As an added bonus, it helps retain [chefs] if they know they are that well thought of,” Clayton says.

As an example, Wagstaff Worldwide, a travel and hospitality public relations company based in Los Angeles, was retained by Kor to promote Chef Warren Schwartz of Whist at the Viceroy Santa Monica. From the first meeting with Kor, it was made clear the goal was to make Chef Schwartz a celebrity.

Wagstaff involved him in the Aspen Food & Wine Classic. They also promote him as a chef who visits private homes to cook. And they publicize his off-the-menu items such as Blue Foot Chicken (an organic-fed chicken born with blue feet). It is not on the menu, but people who “know” about it can pre-order the dish, which is served in a copper pot by Schwartz. Information about this special dining experience runs in several media outlets.

The Blue Foot Chicken was Chef Schwartz’s idea. But he collaborates with Wagstaff to create promotions like Taste of Tuesdays where every Tuesday, starting at 5:30 PM poolside, guests pay $5 a “taste” for items such as grilled tenderloin or pasta to enjoy with cocktails. It’s a media event, and as many as 10 local journalists may come.

At the Avalon, people were coming for cocktails but not staying for dinner at blue on blue. Wagstaff's job was to get them into the restaurant. So on Wednesdays, they decided, there would be no corkage fee for dining. Plus, a chef’s table was created, inviting four to eight guests to go shopping at the farmer's market with the chef, who after offering tips on selecting carrots or morel mushrooms, for example, puts together a seven-course dinner—including the pickings—for $175 with wine pairings. This, however, is designed to promote the restaurant, not the chef specifically, and the media love it, according to a Wagstaff spokesperson.

At Wagstaff, they believe the days of stuffy white tablecloth dining are over but that people still want sophistication ... something interactive.

And they keep in mind that it’s people with the budget who stay in hotels.

REALITY BITES
“An important thing to remember about hotel food and beverage,” says Clayton, ”is that hotel guests will use the [hotel] restaurants only as much as they are willing ... locals will use them because they want to. That’s our bread and butter. Patrons of Whist at the Viceroy Santa Monica, for example, are 65 percent local.

“Those in the industry know if you want to wow guests, it’s through breakfast; if you want to wow the local community, it’s through lunch and dinner,” Clayton says.

As part of the company’s vision, Kor integrates a property’s indoor and outdoor spaces through design, creating a California lifestyle hotel in a sense. Around the pool at the Viceroy Santa Monica, for example, cabanas with wingback chairs are there for relaxing and dining. Guests can see everything and feel part of the pulse, yet also enjoy a sense of privacy. “People feel decadent sitting in a wingback chair in a cabana late at night, watching the scene go by.

“At the Tides South Beach, come cocktail hour, the pool becomes a bar when the restaurant La Marea serves cocktails poolside. And we use furniture that works to draw you in—cabanas, fire pits when possible— to be close to those you love. At our properties, people usually prefer to be outside,” Clayton says.

As for the goal of creating celebrity chefs, it’s a big risk to promote chefs, because they can leave. If that happens, the patrons might assume the restaurant isn’t as good. But Kor is willing to take that risk—and trust and back the people who work for them. And it’s a twoway street.









Margaret Rose Caro is editor of HOTEL F&B.