Start your day with an Amuse. That’s the philosophy of Executive Chef Kevin Goodwin of the Brown Palace Hotel, Denver. He began the new year by creating his first breakfast Amuse at Ellyngton’s to give guests and local Some thing to talk about, make breakfast more memorable, and set the 241-room hotel, its dining experience, and level of personal service beyond expectations.
Goodwin appears to be the first of his colleagues to use breakfast Amuses to wake up his patrons’ palates with something sweet or tart, plus encourage them to try morning menu items they might not otherwise have ordered.
The concept is working as sales of their breakfast smoothies have increased nearly fourfold since first offering the “Shot of Smoothies“ breakfast Amuse. Breakfast covers also have risen, he adds.
“It’s a small investment in time and product that has produced good benefits,” Goodwin says.
Goodwin’s “Mango Coconut Panna cotta with Blood Orange and Berry Sauce“ is another popular breakfast Amuse.
At dinner at the Palace Arms, Goodwin strives to “wow“ his guests with Amuses that are “cutting-edge and avante garde“ like “Porcini Lobster Foam.”
Culinary Destination
Executive Chef Rahm Fama of La Posada de Santa Fe (New Mexico) Resort
&Spa is well on his way to achieving his goal to make this 157-room property “a culinary destination.“ He says he's the
only chef in town to present a canape tray—an array of small bites even tinier than Amuses—immediately after guests
are seated and before the actual Amuse arrives—at the award-winning Fuego Restaurant.
The tray and Amuse are just two of the complimentary courses Fama includes in his multi-course tasting menu, designed to “make the meal an experience, exceed guests’ expectations, and leave a lasting impression in terms of presentation, food, and service.”
Marc Collins, executive chef, Circa 1886 at the 21-room Wentworth Mansion in Charleston, South Carolina, says Amuses are “a taste of what's to come.” Although his creations change daily and seasonally, they are rooted in Southern and Plantation heritage, like “Sea Scallops with Fresh Okra and Corn” or “Roasted Artichoke Grits Soup.”
At two to three bites each, Collins’ Amuses tend to be slightly larger than those of his peers.
“The Amuse starter should be something to talk about with friends and make an impression that lingers,“ Collins says.
Southern Hospitality
For his dinner Amuses, Walter Bundy, executive chef at Lemaire in the 264-room Jefferson Hotel, Richmond, Virginia, says he too retains a Southern approach, highlighting regional products and using the freshest local purveyors.
“I use minimal elements that speak for themselves,“ Bundy says. “A small bite says 1,000 words.“
In addition to using china to present his “Mushroom Soup with Truffle Foam“ or“ Fiddlehead Fern Salad with Avocado Mousse,“ Bundy also works with egg cups and oyster shells.
Damon Hersh, executive chef at the 80-room Admiral Fell Inn in Baltimore, agrees that Amuses should “stand on their own.“
“The Amuse should amuse the mouth. It should be fun and tease the palate and burst in the mouth ,“ Hersh says.
In addition to selecting foods that are “fresh, beautiful, and seasonal,” Hersh wants his guests to feel at home by including ingredients indigenous to their home.
“If we have a guest from the Southwest, for example, I may incorporate an element like pine nuts for an ‘Heirloom Tomato with Fresh Basil with a pine nut inside,’“ Hersh shares.
For presentation, Hersh “uses anything” from a classic bread-and-butter plate to a specially designed Amuse dish. His “Foie Gras Lollipop” is just one Amuse on a stick that requires no serving vessel.
Amuses are among Hersh’s favorite creations; still, he says he values and counts on input from his sous chef and line cooks in what he describes as a “teaching kitchen.”
Encore, Encore
Executive Chef Daniel Dumont of Wentworth by the Sea in New Castle, New Hampshire, says he tries to integrate both a creamy and a crispy element into each Amuse, which can be served hot or cold. He prefers light flavors because smokey ones can overpower the palate.
Because the Wentworth Dining Room can serve upwards of 300 covers a night, Dumont challenges his staff to help create Amuses that have broad appeal, yet won’t compete with different wines. Guests who would love an encore Amuse may find it on the menu when they return.
“Amuses are definitely a prelude to a dish and may be expanded into a first course or element of a main course,” Dumont says.
He also uses Amuses to distinguish the 161-room property for private parties, creating “a gift from the chef” that will impress even the most discerning host or hostess.
Hans Schadler, executive chef and director of culinary, Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia, shares that his dinner Amuses are a “palate teaser, an expectation of what is going to be a fabulous meal.“
Schadler also uses Amuses as a “measuring tool” to critique up-and-coming chefs under his tutelage on creativity and presentation.
Seasonal aspects and geographic location influence all menus, including Amuses, so peanuts and ham are prominent, especially in the fall, Schadler says. Guests are apt to find a “Nut Chutney,” “Carrot Ginger Bisque,” or “Ham Pate.”
Spoon Fed
Dinner begins with an Amuse at Caneel Bay, a Rosewood Resort, Cruz Bay, St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands to “start with a taste and open the palate,” says Executive Chef Alex Chen. Amuses also help Chen educate those guests who may be unfamiliar with the Asian and Japanese influences of many of his culinary creations.
“If they've tasted something before, they are more likely to order it in the future,” Chen says.
Chen, who also serves as regional executive chef, Rosewood Caribbean Resorts, may include Amuses at weddings and other special events because guest response far outweighs the time and expense to create them. Depending on his Amuse, Chen uses a variety of vessels, including shot glasses, miniature martini glasses, and small spoons.
“Amuses are a little amenity that’s easy to do, yet makes a lasting impression,” Chen says.
Susan Bard Hall is product editor for HOTEL F&B EXECUTIVE.
