hef Robert Weland’s defining moment
might have been when, as a toddler, he
watched his grandfather pick vegetables
from his Toms River, New Jersey, garden.
His role-model grandfather was an inspirational
cook who treated his land, garden, and food
with respect. Now, 30 years later, he has adopted his
grandfather’s passion and respect for just-picked
herbs and vegetables. At Hotel Monaco in
Washington, D.C., a Kimpton hotel, Chef Weland,
helmsman of the hotel’s restaurant, Poste, and keeper
of the garden outlining its Parisian-style courtyard,
uses the seasons bounty to craft his menus.
“I go to bed thinking about an upcoming
seasonal fruit or vegetable and wake up with a
combination for a recipe,” Chef Weland says. And
with the help of his staff, Chef Weland develops
and markets creative ways to share his bounty and
philosophy.
Mix masters from the bar encourage guests to
come in for brunch to meet Mary and her “five
sisters.” Mary’s sisters are five versions of Bloody
Mary’s, concoctions created with herbs from Poste’s
garden. In season, the courtyard garden boasts
heirloom tomatoes, pumpkins, mesculin, arugula,
assorted greens, and herbs. Picked daily and nurtured
by Chef Weland, the vegetables and herbs are used
for the daily menu as well as holiday tasting and
special celebration menus.
Passionate about supporting sustainable
seasonal cuisine and local farmers, Chef Weland
shares his knowledge with diners on a guided tour
through the Penn Quarter’s 8th Street farmers
market, FarmFresh. At “To Market, To Market,”
Robert educates diners about current harvest. The
fresh produce purchased is used in a meal prepared
that evening for the shoppers.
For food not purchased at FarmFresh, Weland
sources responsibly raised meats and procures
ethically caught fish and shellfish from local
sustainable farmers and fishermen and/or the
family farmers of the Tuscarora Organic Growers
Cooperative.
Chef Weland presents his creations in eyecatching
handblown bread and butter plates made
by Washingtonian glassmaker, Tim Tate. Jerusalem
Artichoke soup with American black caviar from the
tasting menu is served from shot glass-shaped
vessels; the vessel sits atop a larger vessel filled with
salt. Lobster ravioli “pillows” are presented in
square-shaped clear glass “beds.” Mushroom consommé is served tableside in a coffee press.
After briefing his kitchen talent before the
upcoming lunch and dinner rush, Chef Weland can
be found on the other side of Poste’s dramatic
exhibition kitchen as the conduit to cooks, barking
orders. Watching him expedite adds to the thrill of
the restaurant’s bustling and festive atmosphere.
Poste is situated near the hotel lobby where guests
checking in can see him in culinary mode and are
lured by his energetic and enthusiastic performance.
Poste’s success is the result of several factors. Chef
Weland gets strong support from Kimpton, which
gives him free rein to showcase his style and menu
creations. To further market Poste and as a thank
you and goodwill gesture, front-of-the-house staff is
treated to dinner once a month. Also supportive are
local Washingtonians, who regularly eat organic
seasonal food. Hotel guests are presented a healthy
and cleverly presented option. And then there is
Chef Weland’s staff, who are wedded to his beliefs
and the restaurant’s success.
Kerry Dunnington is author of This Book Cooks (www.thisbookcooks.com)
and a member of Slow Food International and the Chesapeake
Sustainable Business Alliance.