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All Back Issues » January/February 2007 Issue

The 'Poste' Man Delivers
Chef's seasonal philosophy comes home.
by Kerry Dunnington
 




Chef Robert Weland at the Hotel Monaco in Washington, D.C., nurtures the hotel’s herb and vegetable garden, ensuring fresh seasonal additions to his menus.




 

hef Robert Weland’s defining moment might have been when, as a toddler, he watched his grandfather pick vegetables from his Toms River, New Jersey, garden. His role-model grandfather was an inspirational cook who treated his land, garden, and food with respect. Now, 30 years later, he has adopted his grandfather’s passion and respect for just-picked herbs and vegetables. At Hotel Monaco in Washington, D.C., a Kimpton hotel, Chef Weland, helmsman of the hotel’s restaurant, Poste, and keeper of the garden outlining its Parisian-style courtyard, uses the seasons bounty to craft his menus.

“I go to bed thinking about an upcoming seasonal fruit or vegetable and wake up with a combination for a recipe,” Chef Weland says. And with the help of his staff, Chef Weland develops and markets creative ways to share his bounty and philosophy.

Mix masters from the bar encourage guests to come in for brunch to meet Mary and her “five sisters.” Mary’s sisters are five versions of Bloody Mary’s, concoctions created with herbs from Poste’s garden. In season, the courtyard garden boasts heirloom tomatoes, pumpkins, mesculin, arugula, assorted greens, and herbs. Picked daily and nurtured by Chef Weland, the vegetables and herbs are used for the daily menu as well as holiday tasting and special celebration menus.

Passionate about supporting sustainable seasonal cuisine and local farmers, Chef Weland shares his knowledge with diners on a guided tour through the Penn Quarter’s 8th Street farmers market, FarmFresh. At “To Market, To Market,” Robert educates diners about current harvest. The fresh produce purchased is used in a meal prepared that evening for the shoppers.
For food not purchased at FarmFresh, Weland sources responsibly raised meats and procures ethically caught fish and shellfish from local sustainable farmers and fishermen and/or the family farmers of the Tuscarora Organic Growers Cooperative.

Chef Weland presents his creations in eyecatching handblown bread and butter plates made by Washingtonian glassmaker, Tim Tate. Jerusalem Artichoke soup with American black caviar from the tasting menu is served from shot glass-shaped vessels; the vessel sits atop a larger vessel filled with salt. Lobster ravioli “pillows” are presented in square-shaped clear glass “beds.” Mushroom consommé is served tableside in a coffee press.
 
After briefing his kitchen talent before the upcoming lunch and dinner rush, Chef Weland can be found on the other side of Poste’s dramatic exhibition kitchen as the conduit to cooks, barking orders. Watching him expedite adds to the thrill of the restaurant’s bustling and festive atmosphere. Poste is situated near the hotel lobby where guests checking in can see him in culinary mode and are lured by his energetic and enthusiastic performance.

Poste’s success is the result of several factors. Chef Weland gets strong support from Kimpton, which gives him free rein to showcase his style and menu creations. To further market Poste and as a thank you and goodwill gesture, front-of-the-house staff is treated to dinner once a month. Also supportive are local Washingtonians, who regularly eat organic seasonal food. Hotel guests are presented a healthy and cleverly presented option. And then there is Chef Weland’s staff, who are wedded to his beliefs and the restaurant’s success.

Kerry Dunnington is author of This Book Cooks (www.thisbookcooks.com) and a member of Slow Food International and the Chesapeake Sustainable Business Alliance.