Seattle's Best: Kimpton green kitchens, Chef Jason McClure

xecutive Chef Jason McClure of Sazerac at the Hotel Monaco in Seattle has thoroughly embraced eco-friendliness and eco-initiatives. Officially, he has been on the “green team” since 2005 when eco-practices became operationally standardized for kitchens at Kimpton Hotels and Restaurants, following a similar movement for hotels in 2002. But unofficially, McClure, his staff, and guests have been eco-driven for years.

“We're very aware and very green-minded,”says McClure, who will celebrate 10 years with the property in October 2007.

Among the eco-initiatives that McClure personally oversees are: recycling, composting food, using organic foods and sustainable seafood, buying locally raised products to support area commerce, conserving energy and water, switching to “to-go containers” that are either recyclable or made with recyclable materials, and using reusable cloth and linen instead of paper products.

“We recycle anything and everything,” McClure says.

Education is another aspect to Kimpton’s eco-initiatives in general and McClure’s specifically. Sazerac and the Hotel Monaco have worked with the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch, hosting events and dinners to raise awareness about the sustainability of seafood.

McClure joined the Hotel Monaco two months after the hotel opened its doors in August 1997, having moved from Minneapolis. A native of Phoenix, he graduated from Northern Arizona University in Flagstaff with a bachelors degree in Hotel and Restaurant Management.

“I switched my major from photography after my first restaurant job, ”McClure recalls. “I’ve always enjoyed the creative side of things.”

After graduation, he worked as a chef in several small fine dining restaurants in Arizona and Minnesota. His return to the West, this time the Pacific Northwest, was merely a matter of time.

McClure says he found Kimpton attractive because of their leadership position in areas like eco-practices. Kimpton also promotes his passion for cooking.

“I’m a young man with a lot of drive as a chef,”says 34-year-old McClure, who has worked in foodservice since he was 18. “Kimpton allows me the freedom to do what I want.”

He further welcomed the opportunity to work alongside Chef Jan Birnbaum, Sazerac’s visionary. Named for a potent New Orleans-inspired rye whisky-based cocktail, the restaurant is renown for “rustic country fare.” That’s one reason why the wood-burning clay oven is among McClure’s favorite pieces of equipment for roasting, braising, and sauteing.

McClure says he’s “not a gadgety guy,” but if a new high-tech piece were on his wish list, it might be a centrifical juicer for making sauces and vinaigrette reductions. “My favorite tool is a simple saucing spoon, and I enjoy antiquing in search of the perfect old piece of silverware for saucing,”McClure says.

And if you forced his hand to buy something state-of-the-art, he would consider a hand-held emulsion blender.

McClure is responsible for the 185-seat restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch, brunch, and dinner; roomservice; and banquet space totaling 5,000- square feet. His Southern-inspired American cuisine such as Flash Fried Catfish with Lemon Whipped Potatoes and Jalapeño-Lime Meuniere and a Cider Glazed Pork Back Ribs with Sweet Corn-Brioche Bread Pudding are among several creations to receive rave reviews and local food awards.
And when asked where McClure sees himself in five years, he says he wants to be in the same spot, where he’ll mark his tenth anniversary.

“I'd love to continue to evolve my food,” McClure says. “It's great to be part of the smaller, more intimate, boutique-style hotels. Large companies are taking their cue from us, whether it be focusing on food and wine, pet-friendly, women oriented, or eco-driven.”

UNDER THE CHEF'S HAT ...

What's the best advice someone gave you?
My grandfather told me: You don’t have to be the best in the world. Just give a little more than everyone else.

What's the best advice you'd give someone?
The same advice.

What’s your favorite/comfort food to eat?
I enjoy light, fresh foods. Japanese and sushi.

What's your favorite beverage?
I’ve been enjoying fine sakes for over five years now.

What do you do to relax/unwind?
I rebuild and refinish old cruiser-style bikes.

To date, what was your best day in the kitchen?
My best day in the kitchen happens quite frequently. When I look around and see cooks who are passionate and creating the way I would work, it brings a smile to my face.

What was your worst day in the kitchen?
It was about four years ago, before we changed some stations to gas. We had a flue fire. We probably should have closed that day since we weren’t operating at 100 percent, but we had commitments and felt an obligation to fulfill them.

What is your kitchen pet peeve?
I’m a clean freak. I don't like to see cooks with filthy aprons or an unkempt station.

ENVIRONMENTALLY CORRECT

Green is a gold mine. Kimpton Hotel & Restaurant Group has discovered that what’s good for the environment is also a boon for business and employee retention.

Niki Leondakis, COO, Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants, San Francisco, says eco-practices became operationally standardized for kitchens in 2005, while similar company-wide eco-initiatives for hotels took effect in 2002.

Kimpton’s eco-friendliness actually began on the grassroots level because different cities had differing infrastructures. “They (individual hotels and restaurants) were doing it on their own and it inspired us,” says Leondakis. “We’ve had great receptivity. People are passionate about protecting the environment.”

“Doing the right thing for the environment” also has been a business booster. Companies have specifically selected Kimpton because of its environmental program, generating “thousands of dollars in rooms and group F&B business,” Leondakis says. Some of the more apparent practices include using cloth products versus paper; buying organic meats and produce; supporting sustainability; using unbleached, biodegradable bags and boxes instead of polystyrene plastic containers; moving to energyefficient lighting; and switching to low-flow washing stations.

Another aspect to Kimpton’s eco-friendliness is its partnership with San Francisco-based Trust for Public Land. “We do fundraisers for the Trust for Public Land (which conserves land for people to enjoy as parks, community gardens, historic sites, rural lands, and other natural places),” Leondakis says.

Kimpton also celebrates Earth Day and World Environment Day with special menus and programs to help raise awareness, Leondakis adds.

The company’s eco-initiatives also helps to attract and retain employees, Leondakis says.

Widely considered at the forefront of innovation in the hospitality industry, Kimpton appears to be the leader in hotel and restaurant company-wide eco-initiatives.

“No one is doing as much operationally across-the-board as we are,” says Leondakis. “There are a lot of individual operators who may be doing more, but not chain-wide.”

Because of the importance of being green, Leondakis says they are willing to help others implement similar programs.
“The more attention we get for this, the better it is for everyone,” Leondakis says. “If it inspires others, including the competition, we are open to others to learn from us and to help implement their programs.”
—SBH

Susan Bard Hall is a frequent contributor to HOTEL F&B.