“Sail me on a silver sun where I know that I'm free. Show me that I’m everywhere— and get me home for tea.” The Beatles touted the pleasures of England’s favorite ritual in their 1969 song “It’s All Too Much.” In that same spirit, the Fairmont Empress in Victoria, B.C., features a special summertime version of afternoon tea, served in the evening—and with all the grandeur of a bygone era.

The West Coast High Tea is offered at 7 PM on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays from June 1 through September 30. A more savory and substantial repast is offered in this service than is offered at afternoon tea. The twilight tea service was initiated in the summer of 2006 to accommodate visiting cruise passengers, whose sailing schedules prevented a visit to the Fairmont’s popular afternoon event. As an unexpected surprise, the West Coast High Tea caught on with local residents and hotel guests who were seeking a light summertime meal.

The Fairmont Empress is gearing up for its upcoming 100-year anniversary. High tea service has been a hotel tradition since 1908, with over 95,000 guests served annually. This is more than most hotels in London can boast of, and it speaks to the memorable and extraordinary experience afforded the guest in the butlered tea service. Both afternoon and evening tea service require a one- to two-week advance notice. The West Coast High Tea was priced at $42 CAD in 2006, and the price point will be re-evaluated along with the menu for 2007.

The current menu combines elements of classic British tea service, along with both regional and ethnic influences. Menu offerings are presented on a three-tiered tea stand and include Dungeness crab gazpacho served in a sherry glass; prawn and scallop terrine; smoked salmon pin-wheel; curry chicken and mango sandwich; truffle oil-marinated grilled vegetables; duck confit and artichoke purée with poached pear; and an assortment of olives, cornichons, local cheeses, and olive bread crostini. Pastry Chef D’oyen Christie prepares an assortment of desserts including Caramel truffle in chocolate cup, Choux pastry with green tea and white chocolate cream, and traditional shortbread cookies.

A private-label tea, “Tea at the Empress,” was customized for the Fairmont Empress by the Metropolitan Tea Company. It is a blend of fullbodied Assam floral Kenya, fruity South India, piquant Ceylon, and burgundy-like, oaky China tea. This variety is the house tea, although other selections are available.

A unique pattern of Royal Doulton china was produced exclusively for the Fairmont’s tea service and features 14 layers of hand-applied color. The pattern was introduced to the Fairmont some years back during a royal visit. Silver tea pots are used instead of china because of better heat retention and durability. The Fairmont gift shop has become predominantly tea oriented in the sale of the Royal Doulton china and other tea accouterments, providing the hotel with an additional profit center.

DEMAND
With the addition of the twilight tea, Director of F&B Todd Nagle has seen tea covers increase overall. “We were very pleased to see a year-over-year gain of 3 to 5 percent, and the summer months showed even higher at a 6 percent increase. With the general population becoming more tea savvy, the popularity of the evening tea is growing. Guests are rethinking three meals a day and often seek lighter meals. High tea meets that demand for lighter fare—in an unhurried, elegant fashion.”

The traditional setting for the West Coast High Tea is the Fairmont Empress’ Tea Lobby, offering 120 seats. With turn of the century influences, guests sit amidst handcrafted tapestries, lovely architectural moldings, a grand fireplace, stately portraits of Queen Victoria and King George, and polished hardwood floors. The Library offers additional space in a smaller, more intimate location.

“We are very proud of the hotel and the unique experience offered in both the afternoon and twilight teas”, says Nagle. “We are keen on continuing to offer a quality product, while addressing the challenges of offering food service in an area that is some distance from service areas. This year, we completed the relocation of food service equipment to the heart of the house and nearer the Tea Lobby. In 2007, we will spend half a million dollars in renovations and create convenient food service stations resembling Victorian furniture. We will reallocate service positions and alter how they function so servers will remain on the floor more consistently. Our goal is always to provide a more seamless and relaxed experience of high tea for guests. These traditions go back for a century, and we want to provide a truly elegant experience—a must-do experience—for visitors to Victoria and the Fairmont Empress.”

Nancy Fox is a frequent contributor to HOTEL F&B.