Until the past four or five years of high-quality special premium bottles, most of my tequila drinking came with bowls of guacamole, chips and salsa, quesadillas, spicy pollo tamales, carne asadas, and tres leches.

Singing Herb Albert’s famed song, “T-E-Q-U-I-L-A”! was imperative, and with many, many friends. Sad but true, it consisted of drinkspirited afternoons and late nights highlighted by adventurous ways to show off your style: gymnastics on the bar and slugging back shots and beer chasers pool tableside like a Clint Eastwood tough guy. And there was the rowdy moonlit beach party with dancing all the way ‘til dawn or intrigue.“T-E-Q-U-I-L-A!”

While much of that, but not all, has changed, I have added a more mature level to my tequila appreciation, focusing on sipping quality—and slowly. And I continue to find food combinations that let me enjoy the various tastes of fine Artisan styles.

When entering a den of beverage, I always check out the back bar with menu in hand, no matter what the cuisine. I envision the herbal peppery flavors of a blanco; the slight caramel oakiness of a smooth and fruit-forward reposado; and the aged, cask-cured Añejo, more expensive, polished, the cognac style of Tequila.

I joined a few friends one night, including Tom Conrad who dislodged a few bottles of his favorite Cielo brand, to pair foods with tequilas of 100 percent agave. At this potluck party, we paired sipping quality brands with cross-cultural flavors. Some stood out. Notice the variety of cuisines.

• Tostones: lime grilled shrimp pairs with Blanco
• Tortillas of chili grilled lamb, fava bean mashed, cilantro, chutney pairs with Anejo
• A biryani of chicken pairs with Reposado
• North Indian lentil stew pairs with Anejo
• Roast pork and rice with sour orange, garlic, and chilies pairs with Anejo
• Shellfish coconut curry pairs with Blanco
• Spring rolls: lobster, pork, mushrooms, rice noodles with Thai fish sauce pairs with Blanco

Another night Sergio Sanchez of Chicago’s Twisted Lizard cooked. Both dishes were fiery. One was a pozole with pork shoulder: hominy, guajillo peppers and tomato with mounds of fresh red cabbage, and radishes and lettuce for garnish. And a tasty grilled flank was made with chipotle. I preferred the blanco and reposado with the posole and reposado and añejo with the flank. But, why not see for yourself?

Once you begin, the education must continue. The last night we compared the tequilas with another smokier Mescal. Often fruits, nuts, and rice are added during distillation, particularly one three times distilled. One of my favorites, Del Maguey, found me sipping its Pechuga, single village, with simple roast chicken. It has flavors of pineapple, vanilla, pear, almond, apple, and coffee.

The heady aromatic Santo Domingo Albarradas combined perfectly with grilled eggplant steak over a puree of rosemary white beans. Its Tobala accented my salmon with fresh salsa verde. The aggressive lemony Minero did wonders while searing sole on a plancha with a touch of green olive and couscous. And a crowd pleaser, Crème de Mescal, was nearly inhaled when I put it down against a creamy centered warm chocolate cake with orange zest. Watch out for the stampede. But remember, one rule of pairing often is simple food with complicated beverage.

If you ask most bartenders why volume cocktail houses sell huge amounts of margaritas, images of party time light up their faces. And who can knock the profits? But I challenge you to step into a different mindset.

And brands everywhere are showcasing their commitment to customer preferences for that extra sip of distinctive taste. Tequilas have reached the status of vodka, single malt Scotch, cult bourbon, and gin. As Herb Albert’s trumpet blares, I join! “T-E-Q-U-I-L-A!”

Michael Foley, a celebrated American chef, has three decades of owner/operator hotel, winery, and restaurant experience. Based in Chicago, he travels for the U.S. government highlighting American products with regional and creative cooking.